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Playing the chanter on a restaurant platform in the Tigris

Playing the chanter on a platform in the shallows of the Tigris at the ancient Kurdish city of Hasankeyf, until recently under threat of inundation by a British-financed hydro dam, the Ilisu project. Thanks to the EU, this has been abandoned and Hasankeyf has been preserved as a heritage site. As a result the Hasankeyf locals are the most pro-European people you could find outside Strasbourg. I am on a sleeping platform like those found in houses all over this part of Kurdistan, here recycled by a fish restaurant - there are several along the shore here. The level of the river varies with water release from a hydro dam upstream, so by the end of our meal there were ducks swimming underneath us and we needed a gangplank to get back to shore.

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